The Henri Bonneau Réserve des Célestins 2017 is a deeply savoury, Grenache-led Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the southern Rhône Valley, built on old-vine concentration rather than polish. Whole bunches, concrete fermentation and long ageing in old wood give it the wild, unforced character that made this domaine's name.

Aromas arrive in layers: macerated red cherry and dried fig, then garrigue herbs, cracked pepper, leather and a faint smokiness. The palate is broad and warm, with sweet kirsch fruit stretched over dried orange peel, game and something almost balsamic at the edges.

Structure comes from tannin that is dense but softly grained, more sinew than grip, with acidity holding the middle together and stopping the ripeness from spreading. The 2017 growing season across Châteauneuf-du-Pape was hot and dry, and the wine carries that in its sheer density and the low yields behind it, though the finish stays long, dusty and savoury rather than sweet.

Serve with slow-roasted lamb shoulder, daube of beef with olives, hare, or a plate of aged sheep's milk cheese. Decant an hour ahead and give it a large glass — the aromatics keep unfolding.

Drinking well from 2027, with two decades or more ahead of it for those with the patience and the cellar space.