The Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Célestins 2005 is a deep, Grenache-led red from the southern Rhône Valley that trades power for detail as it ages. Now two decades on, the 2005 sits in that rare space where dried red fruit, savoury earth and fine tannin all speak at once.

Aromatically the wine is layered rather than loud: macerated cherry and fig, dried thyme and bay, cured meat, leather and a faint lick of liquorice. The palate carries sweet, almost confited red fruit through a savoury core of iron, dried herb and warm stone, with the fruit sitting well back from the front of the glass.

The 2005 growing season in Châteauneuf-du-Pape was long and even, with warm dry days and cool nights, and that shows here as concentration without heaviness. Tannins are fine-grained and still firm, acidity holds the middle in line, and the finish runs long and mineral, tightening rather than fading. Give it an hour in a decanter.

Serve with slow-roasted lamb shoulder, daube of beef, mushroom and thyme risotto, or hard sheep's milk cheeses. Game birds and anything touched by smoke or char work just as well.

Drinking beautifully now and worth watching over the next decade, with well-cellared bottles likely to hold through 2035 and beyond.