The Château Sociando-Mallet 2017 is a firm, medium to full-bodied Haut-Médoc red built on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Fresh and linear rather than plush, it carries real depth of fruit without heaviness.

Blackcurrant and dark plum lead the aromatics, with cedar, pencil shaving and a slatey, almost stony edge underneath. The palate follows the same line: cassis and blackberry through the middle, dried herb and graphite at the edges, and a savoury turn as it opens in the glass.

Structure is the story here. Tannins are firm and fine-grained, still a touch chewy in youth, and bright acidity keeps the 2017 vintage feeling taut and lifted through a long, dry, mineral finish. This is claret in the old sense — proportioned, serious, and more interested in shape than sweetness.

Pour it with roast lamb and rosemary, a standing rib roast, slow-braised beef cheeks, or duck with lentils. Hard cheeses such as aged cheddar and comté work well too. Decant an hour ahead if you are drinking it young.

Drinking well now with air, and this Haut-Médoc has the tannin and acid line to keep developing through to around 2032.