Chateau Tronquoy Lalande 2017 is a Merlot-led Saint-Estèphe from the northern Médoc, built around dark fruit and firm, well-drawn tannin rather than sheer power. The 2017 blend of 55% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc gives a red with real freshness, a hallmark of the vintage in Bordeaux.

Blackberry and dark cherry lead the aromatics, with cedar, crushed violet and a savoury turn of tobacco and graphite underneath. The palate follows through with plum and cassis, a touch of spice and the faint iron-and-earth character that marks good Saint-Estèphe.

Medium to full-bodied, the wine carries fine-grained tannins that grip gently at the edges and a bright acid line running the length of the palate. The finish is dry and long, ending on dark fruit and a hint of cured meat rather than sweetness — the northern Médoc's structure without the austerity.

Roast lamb with rosemary, a slow-braised beef cheek, a good aged cheddar, or a rare porterhouse off the grill will all sit happily alongside it. A decant of an hour helps the fruit open up.

Drinking well now and through to around 2032, with the tannin and acidity to hold shape across that stretch. Cellar it on its side, away from light and temperature swings.