Fabien Duveau's Saumur-Champigny Bourg 2023, bottled in magnum, is a Cabernet Franc red from the appellation's limestone-rich core, named for the Bourg lieu-dit.

The nose shows red and black currant, violet and a distinctive graphite, leafy edge that marks out well-grown Loire Cabernet Franc. On the palate it's fresh and mid-weight, with fine-grained tannin and bright acidity rather than heft, finishing with a savoury, peppery note. 2023 was a good vintage for Loire reds, giving ripeness without losing the variety's natural lift and freshness.

Serve with roast duck, charcuterie, or a mushroom tart. It also handles vegetable-forward dishes - grilled capsicum, ratatouille - that overwhelm heavier reds, and takes well to a light chill on a warm evening. Drinking well now through to around 2029, with the structure to soften and gain complexity over the next few years.