The Philippe Collotte Bourgogne Rouge "Noble Souche" 2024 is a bright, lightly built Pinot Noir from Bourgogne, drawn from old vines around Marsannay-la-Côte on clay-limestone soils. Fruit and perfume lead here rather than weight, and it is ready to drink from release.

Red cherry, cranberry and a squeeze of blood orange come first, then something floral and faintly peppery behind. On the palate the fruit stays crunchy and sappy, with a light dusting of spice and a savoury, earthy undertow that keeps it from tasting sweet.

Structurally this is a wine of line rather than muscle. Tannins are fine and mostly tucked under the fruit, acidity runs clean through the middle, and the finish is medium in length, tart and clipped, closing on sour cherry skin and dried herb. Old-vine fruit gives it a bit more depth in the middle than the appellation usually promises.

Serve the Bourgogne Rouge "Noble Souche" 2024 at around 15°C, with a light chill if the day is warm, and give it half an hour in the glass. It suits roast chicken, duck rillettes, mushroom risotto, charcuterie or a slab of Comté, and handles fish like salmon or tuna without complaint. Drink it now through to about 2029, with the sweet spot in the next two or three years.