The Apsley Gorge Pinot Noir 2019 is a dark, deeply fruited East Coast Tasmanian pinot noir that carries genuine weight without losing its cool-climate lift. Grown at Bicheno and made with wild yeast, it sits at the savoury, textural end of Tasmanian pinot rather than the bright and simple end.

Black cherry and dark plum lead the aromatics, with forest floor, dried herbs and a faint gamey funk that comes with wild ferment. Air brings out red berry and a whiff of woodsmoke and warm spice.

The palate is rich and layered, translucent in colour but not in flavour, with fruit tannin that grips lightly and a firm line of acidity holding everything in shape. Bicheno sits inland from the coast where afternoon breezes push ripening late — Apsley Gorge is typically among the last Tasmanian vineyards picked — and that long hang shows as depth of flavour rather than heat. The finish is long, faintly savoury and mineral.

Duck breast with cherries, slow-roasted pork belly, mushroom risotto or a plate of charcuterie all work. It also has enough structure for grilled venison or a well-made game terrine.

Drinking well now after time in bottle, though the 2019 has the acid and tannin to keep developing through to around 2029. Decant an hour ahead if opening young.