The Lignier-Michelot Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Bertin 2018 is a perfumed, medium-bodied Pinot Noir from the village of Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy's Côte de Nuits, made with whole bunches rather than destemmed fruit. Airy and spice-lifted rather than heavy, it leans on red fruit and fine detail.

Ripe strawberry and red cherry lead the aroma, with the whole-bunch fermentation adding tea leaf, bay and a dusting of exotic spice. The palate carries crunchy red berry fruit and a savoury edge, sweeter and rounder in the middle than the fragrance suggests, which is the mark of the warm, generous 2018 growing season across the Côte de Nuits.

Tannins are talc-fine and soft, framing the fruit without gripping, and the acidity keeps everything buoyant. Texture is the point here: silky, lightly built, with a gently spiced finish that floats rather than lands. Decanting half an hour before serving helps the aromatics open out.

Serve it with roast duck, mushroom risotto, coq au vin or a simple roast chook with thyme. Charcuterie and washed-rind cheeses work well too. Around 15°C is the sweet spot.

Drinking well now and through to about 2033, with the middle years likely showing the most complete picture.