The Lignier-Michelot Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Chezeaux 2014 is a fine-boned, red-fruited Pinot Noir from this Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru site in Burgundy, built on perfume and detail rather than sheer power. Medium-bodied and classically proportioned, it rewards patience in the glass as much as in the cellar.

Wild strawberry, morello cherry and rosehip lead, with a savoury edge of crushed leaf, woodsmoke and cool earth sitting underneath. A portion of whole bunches goes into the ferment here, and it shows in the faint peppery, stemmy lift that gathers and settles with air.

Aux Chezeaux carries its fruit on a slim, taut frame, with the bright acidity that marked the 2014 season in the Côte de Nuits keeping everything upright and clean. Tannins are fine and dusty, more thread than wall, and the finish is quietly persistent rather than showy, closing on sour cherry and dried herb.

Serve it with roast duck breast, mushroom risotto, coq au vin or a plate of jamón and washed-rind cheese. Give the bottle a decant of half an hour and keep the temperature just below room — around 16°C brings the aromatics into focus.

Drinking well from now, with the freshness and tannin structure to keep developing through to around 2032 under good cellaring.