The Lignier-Michelot Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Murgers 2014 is a savoury, medium-bodied Pinot Noir from the northern end of the Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru vineyards in Burgundy. Red-fruited and firmly framed rather than plush, it has the freshness that marks the better Côte de Nuits reds of 2014.

Cranberry, morello cherry and dried rose lift out of the glass first, then the tertiary layer that a decade in bottle has brought: undergrowth, cured meat, black tea and a little woodsmoke. Air draws out something wilder and more mineral, the stony, faintly iron-like character that Nuits-Saint-Georges tends to show as it ages.

Tannins are fine but present, running in a straight line through the middle of the palate and holding the fruit in check. Acidity is bright, a legacy of a cool, damp August in Burgundy in 2014 that was rescued by a warm, dry September, and the wine finishes long and dry with more earth and spice than sweetness.

Serve with duck breast, roast quail, mushroom risotto, or slow-cooked beef cheek. Softer washed-rind and aged goat's cheeses work well too, and the wine will handle a plate of charcuterie without being overwhelmed.

Drinking beautifully now through to around 2030. Give it an hour in a decanter, or open it a little early, as the 2014s in the Côte de Nuits take some time to unwind.