The Lignier-Michelot Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Murgers 2013 is a savoury, medium-bodied Pinot Noir from the northern end of Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru in Burgundy, where the sand and gravel soils give a lifted, fine-boned style rather than a broad one. Now well into its second decade, the 2013 has traded primary fruit for something earthier and more layered.

Dried red cherry and cranberry sit alongside sous-bois, cured meat and a twist of black pepper, with the whole-bunch component in the ferment showing as a faint stemmy spice. Air brings out damp forest floor and a hint of dried rose.

Fine, slightly grippy tannin runs the length of the palate, and the cool acidity typical of the 2013 season in the Côte de Nuits keeps everything taut. Twelve months in barrel has been absorbed, leaving only a soft frame around a long, mineral, gently drying finish.

Good with roast duck, mushroom risotto, coq au vin or a plate of soft washed-rind cheese. Serve it a touch cool, around 16 degrees, and give the bottle half an hour open before pouring.

Drinking beautifully now and through to about 2028, though bottles with good cellar history should hold a few years beyond that.