The Lignier-Michelot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2013 is a fine-boned, savoury Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis in Burgundy's Côte de Nuits, more about perfume and precision than sheer power. In magnum, the slower ageing curve has kept it fresh and tightly wound.

Aromatically, this Clos de la Roche Grand Cru sits in red fruit territory — morello cherry, cranberry, a dab of raspberry — with dried rose petal, forest floor and a faint iron edge underneath. The palate follows in the same slim register, the fruit taut and cool rather than sweet, with sappy stem spice and a touch of cured meat filling out the middle.

Structurally, the 2013 growing season shows itself in the wine's shape: a cold, wet spring and late flowering across the Côte de Nuits made for lean, high-toned reds, and the tannins here are fine-grained and drying rather than plush. Acidity runs long and bright, and the finish is drawn-out, mineral and faintly bitter in the way good Morey-Saint-Denis often is.

Pour it with roast duck, mushroom risotto, squab, or a plate of soft washed-rind cheese and bread. Given the format, it is a bottle for a table of six with something slow-cooked in front of them.

Drinking well now with an hour's air, and the magnum should hold to around 2032 — bear in mind a 1.5L matures more slowly than the equivalent 750mL, so there is no hurry.