The Domaine Desvignes Givry Premier Cru Clos du Vernoy 2023 is a Pinot Noir of real clarity from the Côte Chalonnaise, more about red fruit and fine-grained tannin than density. Clos du Vernoy is a monopole holding of roughly 0.7 hectares sitting directly behind the family's winery at Poncey, and the 2023 is the first vintage in which the estate kept 20% whole bunches.

Raspberry and morello cherry lead, with dried rose, crushed leaf and a faint peppery lift from those whole bunches. Given twenty minutes in the glass, darker plum and a savoury, earthy undertone come through behind the fruit.

Medium-bodied and precise, the Clos du Vernoy 2023 carries its fruit on a firm line of acidity, with tannins that feel powdery rather than grippy and a gentle chalky grip at the edges. The finish is long and dry, closing on sour cherry and stone.

Roast duck, mushroom risotto, coq au vin or a plate of good charcuterie all work. Serve it a touch below room temperature, around 15 degrees, and it will show more of its perfume.

Drinking well now with an hour's air, and this Givry Premier Cru should hold and gain complexity through to about 2033.