The Bonnaire Terroirs Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV is a taut, chalk-driven Champagne made entirely from Chardonnay grown on the Grand Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs, with the family's home village of Cramant at its heart. Low dosage and three years on lees give it a fine, almost weightless texture with real length behind it.

Pale gold with a green tinge and a steady thread of tiny bubbles. Lemon zest, grapefruit and white flowers lead, with hawthorn and acacia in behind and a faint mint lift, while time on lees brings a soft brioche and toasted almond warmth that sits under rather than over the fruit. Extra Brut dosage keeps the palate lean and precise, so the acidity does the work: citrus pith, green apple and a saline, chalky grip that builds through the middle. The mousse is fine and creamy, and the finish is dry, mineral and long, closing cleanly rather than fading into sweetness.

Serve it as an aperitif with freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters, or pour it through a meal with sashimi, king prawns, salt and pepper squid or a plate of raw kingfish with lemon. It also handles roast chicken and soft, young goat's cheese well. Drinking beautifully now and worth holding three to five years, over which the citrus will soften and the toasty, nutty side will come further forward.