The Bonnaire Le Bateau Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2016 is a taut, chalk-driven Champagne from a single lieu-dit on the Côte des Blancs, made entirely from Chardonnay grown on old vines in Cramant. Long ageing on lees and a dosage under 2g/L give it richness without any sweetness to soften the edges.

Lemon curd, white peach and grapefruit pith lead, with the toasted almond and brioche character that comes from years spent resting in bottle before disgorgement. Air brings out something more savoury — sea spray, crushed oyster shell, a hint of white flowers. Fermented and raised in stainless steel, Le Bateau arrives with a fine, persistent mousse and a knife-edge line of acidity running the length of the palate. The texture is creamy through the middle, then narrows sharply into a dry, saline finish that goes on well past where you expect it to stop. Extra Brut dosage keeps everything transparent.

Serve it with Sydney rock oysters, sashimi-grade kingfish or a plate of jamón. It also has the weight to handle roast chicken or a wedge of aged comté if you would rather drink it at the table than before dinner. Drinking beautifully now if given a decent-sized glass and twenty minutes, and structured to keep developing through to around 2032.