The Domaine Comte Abbatucci Général de la Révolution 2022 is a white of unusual depth and presence from the granite hills inland of Ajaccio in Corsica, built from a handful of near-forgotten native varieties rather than a single familiar grape. Powerful yet lifted, it has more in common with a serious white Rhône or aged Chenin than with the island's brisker seaside whites.

Carcajolu Biancu, Paga Debiti, Riminese, Rossola Brandinca, Biancone and Vermentinu together give white peach, quince and dried fig, with wild fennel, beeswax and a whiff of the maquis behind them. Air brings citrus peel and something faintly smoky and saline.

The wine is broad and textural across the middle, fermented naturally and matured in demi-muids, which shows as a fine chalky grip rather than any obvious wood. Acidity runs straight through the richness and the finish is long, stony and dry, with a savoury bitter twist that resets the palate.

Pour it with grilled fish in olive oil, roast chicken with herbs, or a plate of Corsican charcuterie and sheep's cheese. Slow-cooked pork shoulder and firm, nutty cheeses work just as well, and the wine handles garlic and rosemary without flinching.

Drinking well now if decanted, and this 2022 has the concentration and acid frame to develop for a decade or more in a good cellar.