The Château Mont-Redon Le Plateau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2024 is a serious, old-vine white from the Rhône Valley, built on Grenache Blanc and Clairette grown on the pebble-and-sand plateau above the village. Fermented and matured on lees, it is a white of texture and length rather than simple fruit.

Aromatically the wine leans on white peach, quince and lemon curd, with fennel seed, dried chamomile and a faint waxy note that comes with lees work. The palate is generous through the middle, apple and stone fruit carried on a creamy, slightly savoury line, then dried herbs and a touch of ginger spice on the back half.

A cooler, wetter than usual season across Châteauneuf-du-Pape in 2024 has done this white a favour, keeping the acidity taut and the aromatics lifted where warmer years can leave the whites broad. Weight and freshness sit in balance here: the texture is silky, the finish long and faintly salty, with the phenolic grip that makes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc such a good food wine.

Serve it with roast chicken and thyme, scallops in brown butter, veal, or a gratin of potato and cream. Washed-rind cheese works too. Don't serve it too cold — around 12°C lets the aromatics open properly.

Drink now through to 2032, though the 2024 will reward five years in the cellar, when the fruit gives way to honey, nuts and dried herbs.