The Ghost Rock Chardonnay 2024 is a taut, cool-climate white from Northdown on Tasmania's Cradle Coast, built on citrus and white stone fruit rather than richness. Fine acidity carries it, and the wine finishes dry and long.

Grapefruit pith, white peach and lemon balm come first, with a nutty, faintly savoury edge underneath and a whiff of sea air. Air brings out nectarine and a chalky, oyster-shell character that keeps the fruit in check. Northdown's maritime cool shows in the shape of the wine: bright, penetrating acidity runs the length of the palate, giving the 2024 Chardonnay a lean, upright frame with just enough creamy texture across the middle to soften the edges. Phenolics are fine and slightly grippy, and the finish is saline and drawn out, more citrus zest than tropical fruit.

Pair it with local oysters, grilled flathead, scallops with brown butter, or a roast chicken with lemon and tarragon. It also handles a soft-washed rind cheese well, and it is good with anything involving fennel or leek. Drink from now to around 2031. The Ghost Rock Chardonnay 2024 is enjoyable young for its energy and drive, though a couple of years in the cellar will let the nutty, textural side fill out behind that Cradle Coast acid line.