The Domaine Christophe Patrice Chablis Beauregard 2024 is a taut, mineral-driven Chardonnay from Chablis Premier Cru in Burgundy, built on citrus and wet stone rather than richness. Fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts after whole-bunch pressing, it keeps the appellation's cut intact while carrying the density that the south-facing Beauregard cru is known for.

Grapefruit pith, lemon zest and green apple lead the aromatics, with a chalky, faintly saline edge underneath and a touch of white blossom as the wine opens. The palate follows the nose closely, adding preserved lemon and a subtle nutty note that comes from vines aged between 40 and 70 years.

Structurally this is a lean, upright wine with high natural acidity running the length of the palate. Texture comes from concentration rather than weight, and the finish is dry, stony and long, tightening as it goes.

The 2024 season in Chablis was a wet, mildew-plagued one that cut yields hard and delivered fruit picked at moderate ripeness, which shows here as brisk citrus and lower-alcohol tension instead of tropical fruit. Pour it with Sydney rock oysters, grilled whiting, scallop crudo or a wedge of young goat's cheese.

Drinking well from now with a bit of air, and the acid backbone to reward cellaring through to 2032.