The Domaine Pierrick-Laroche Chablis Beauroy 2023 is a bright, cool-toned Chardonnay from the Beauroy Premier Cru on the left bank of Chablis, in northern Burgundy. Citrus and wet-stone character lead, with just enough breadth through the middle to make it satisfying rather than austere.

Aromatics run to lemon pith, green apple skin and white flowers, with a faint oyster-shell edge that lifts as the wine warms in the glass. The palate follows with grapefruit, nashi pear and a saline undertow, the fruit clean and unadorned.

Structure comes from a fine, driving acid line rather than weight, and 2023 has softened that line a touch: a large crop was set after ideal flowering in Chablis, and a September heatwave pushed ripeness up while trimming acidity, so this Chablis Premier Cru drinks with more generosity and less bite than a leaner year. Texture is lightly chalky across the mid-palate, and the finish is dry, long and faintly bitter in the way good Chablis should be.

Oysters are the obvious call, but the Beauroy handles more than that — grilled flathead, scallops with brown butter, roast chicken with lemon and thyme, or a wedge of young goat's cheese. Serve it around 10-12°C, not colder, or the detail disappears.

Drinking well now and through to about 2029, with the mid-weight 2023 profile favouring earlier enjoyment than a tighter vintage would.