The Laurent Roumier Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Blanc 2022 is a taut, mineral-driven Chardonnay from the high country above Chambolle-Musigny in Burgundy. Ripe orchard fruit sits over a chalky, citric core, and the wine still feels tightly wound rather than showy.

Aromatically, the 2022 leads with white peach and lemon pith, then a waft of crushed stone and toasted hazelnut. The palate follows in the same register — nashi pear, grapefruit and a faint spice note from time in Allier oak, all held on a slim frame.

Grown on the chalkiest, most limestone-rich soils of a small parcel planted to Chardonnay, this Hautes-Côtes de Nuits carries firm, salty acidity from front to back. Texture comes from fine lees weight rather than richness, and the finish is dry, precise and long, closing on lemon zest and wet limestone.

Pour it with Sydney rock oysters, grilled whiting, a chicken and leek pie, or a wedge of young goat's cheese. It also handles roast pork with apple better than most whites at this weight.

Drink from now through to about 2029. A year or two in the cellar will soften the acid line and coax out more of the nutty, honeyed side; decant or give it half an hour in the glass if you are opening a bottle tonight.