The Domaine Fabien Coche Bourgogne Côte d'Or Chardonnay 2022 is a taut, quietly generous white Burgundy that drinks well above its regional appellation. Grown on seven estate parcels within Meursault, this 2022 Chardonnay carries the salty, stone-fruited character of the village at a fraction of the outlay.

White peach and ripe lemon lead, backed by green almond, crushed oyster shell and a faint waft of hazelnut. The old vines, averaging over fifty years, show in the concentration rather than in any obvious weight, and the fruit reads as ripe rather than sweet — a fair reflection of the warm, dry 2022 growing season in Burgundy.

Hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed, then given twelve months in barrel and a further six in stainless steel before bottling unfined and unfiltered, the wine has a creamy mid-palate pulled tight by chalky acidity. At 12% alcohol it stays light on its feet, finishing long, dry and faintly saline.

Pair it with roast chicken and buttered leeks, grilled flathead, scallops, or a wedge of Comté. It also holds its own against richer dishes — chicken pie, veal, or pasta with cream and lemon.

Drinking nicely now with an hour's air, and worth holding through to around 2028 as the nutty, mineral side fills out.