The Domaine Fabien Coche Meursault Le Limozin 2023 is a village Chardonnay from Burgundy with real depth to it, without giving up brightness. Le Limozin sits on the southern side of the commune just below the Premier Cru of Genevrières, and the wine tastes like it — closer to Premier Cru weight than most village Meursault.

Aromatics run to white peach, poached pear and lemon curd, with hazelnut and a warm brioche note sitting underneath. The palate is rounded and creamy through the middle, then a citrus-pith edge cuts across it and keeps everything moving.

Coche's vines here are 40 to 50 years old on a small parcel of a fifth of a hectare, and that concentration shows in the density rather than in any heaviness. Acidity is fine and persistent, the texture faintly waxy, and the finish is long, saline and drier than the mid-palate suggests. The 2023 growing season across the Côte de Beaune was generous and warm, which reads here as ripe, forward fruit held in check by a light touch at the close.

Roast chicken with lemon and thyme is the obvious match, though it will handle richer things: scallops in butter, crab linguine, a chunk of Comté, or pork loin with apple.

Drink from 2026 through to around 2032, decanted or at least given twenty minutes in the glass if you are opening a bottle young.