The Domaine Fabien Coche Meursault Les Luchets 2023 is a village white Burgundy from Meursault, made from Chardonnay grown on the higher, cooler ground above the village. Les Luchets leans towards citrus tension and stony drive rather than the broad, buttery style some drinkers expect from the name.

Grapefruit pith, white peach and pear lead the aromatics, with a smoky, flinty edge and a suggestion of hazelnut and lemon curd behind. Air brings out orchard blossom and a hint of crushed shell.

Medium-bodied and finely built, the palate carries a saline, mineral thread from front to back, with acidity that stays bright and keeps the fruit precise rather than plush. There is enough mid-palate weight to feel generous, but the finish is dry, long and gently savoury, closing on lemon rind and wet stone.

Serve it with roast chicken, scallops in butter, a gruyère tart or a plate of oysters. It also handles richer fish — turbot, or salmon with a cream sauce — without losing its shape.

Drink the Meursault Les Luchets 2023 from now to around 2032, with a decant or a large glass helping in its first couple of years. The estate is now certified organic, and the 2023 vintage brought generous volumes to Meursault after the tiny 2021 crop, giving wines with ripe fruit and freshness rather than heaviness.