The Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gains 2023 is a taut, finely drawn Chardonnay from one of the higher, cooler Premier Cru sites in Puligny-Montrachet, sitting above Les Folatières on thin soils at around 360 metres. Rather than weight or richness, this Burgundy trades in citrus clarity, chalky drive and length.

Aromatically it opens quietly — white peach, lemon pith, crushed oyster shell and a faint herbal lift, the sort of nose that unfolds over an hour in the glass rather than announcing itself. The palate follows the same line: grapefruit and green apple, a dusting of almond skin, nothing heavy.

Acidity is the spine here, bright and linear, and the 2023 season in Puligny-Montrachet shows in the wine's cool, high-toned fruit and slender frame. Texture is fine-grained rather than creamy, and the finish is dry, saline and persistent, with the tension you expect from a Champs Gains at Premier Cru level.

Serve it with raw scallops, king prawns off the grill, a plate of Sydney rock oysters, or roast chicken with lemon and tarragon. It also handles young goat's cheese and a simple risotto without being overwhelmed.

Drink from 2026 through to around 2033. The 2023 is a touch closed on release, so give the bottle a decant or a year or two in the cellar to let the mid-palate fill out.