The Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 2023 is a premier cru white Burgundy that balances ripe citrus generosity against fine mineral tension. Chardonnay from two parcels within Les Folatières, one planted in 1965 lower on richer soils and one from 1993 high on the stony slope near Blagny, gives the wine both flesh and a taut spine.

Pear, white peach and Meyer lemon lead the aromas, with acacia blossom, crushed hazelnut and a whisper of gunflint behind them. Eleven months in oak, of which 25 to 30 per cent was new, lends a light brioche warmth that sits under the fruit rather than over it.

The palate is sleek and layered, citrus and stone fruit running along a chalky, saline line that keeps everything upright. Texture builds through the middle without weight, and the finish is long and dry, closing on almond skin and wet stone.

Pair the Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 2023 with roast chicken and butter sauce, scallops, ocean trout, or a wedge of aged Comté. Decant briefly and serve at around 12 degrees, not colder, or the detail in the mid-palate disappears.

Drinking well from 2026 and holding comfortably through to 2035, with the acid structure and concentration to reward patience in the middle of that window.