The Domaine Couturier Saint-Véran Clos du Château 2023 is a taut, savoury Chardonnay from Saint-Véran in southern Burgundy, with citrus and stone-fruit fruit held on a firm mineral line. Grown at Davayé on clay and limestone soils farmed organically and biodynamically, the wine leans towards precision rather than richness.

Aromatically the Clos du Château opens on white peach, grapefruit pith and lemon curd, with a smoky, struck-flint edge and a hint of almond behind. The palate follows through with yellow apple and nectarine, gaining a subtle nuttiness as it warms in the glass.

Structurally this is a mid-weight white with real drive: acidity runs straight down the centre, the texture is faintly waxy across the middle, and chalky, mineral grip takes over on a long, dry finish. Warm conditions through the 2023 growing season across the Mâconnais show as generous ripeness in the fruit rather than any loss of tension, and the wine finishes clean and lightly saline.

Roast chicken with lemon and thyme is an easy match, as are seared scallops, pork loin, gruyère tarts or a plate of oysters. Saint-Véran of this style also handles richer seafood — crab, prawns in butter, or a smoked trout salad.

Drink the Saint-Véran Clos du Château 2023 now through to about 2029, with a decent chill rather than an aggressive one. A year or two more in bottle will trade some of the citrus lift for honeyed depth.