The Paul Chavy Saint-Aubin sur Gamay 2022 is a taut, citrus-driven white Burgundy from the Saint-Aubin Premier Cru vineyards of the Côte de Beaune. Chardonnay in this style leans on tension and stony bite rather than richness, with just enough weight to feel generous.

Lemon pith, white peach and a touch of green apple lead the aromatics, with hazelnut and crushed shell sitting behind them. Air brings out something floral and faintly savoury, closer to bruised pear and sea salt than tropical fruit.

The palate of this Saint-Aubin Premier Cru is medium-bodied and firmly drawn, acidity running straight down the centre and pulling the fruit tight against a chalky, slightly grippy texture. There is a light creaminess through the middle that gives the wine flesh without blunting its edge, and the finish is dry, mineral and long, closing on lemon rind and a saline flick.

Serve it with roast chicken and its pan juices, scallops, a gratin of leeks, or a hard sheep's cheese. It also handles Balmain bugs or grilled whiting well, particularly with butter and plenty of lemon.

Drink the 2022 now through to around 2030, with a decant or a splash in the glass to open it early on; the middle years should see the nutty, savoury side come forward.