The Paul Chavy Pernand-Vergelesses en Caradeux 2022 is a taut, sunlit white Burgundy Chardonnay from the Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru vineyard of En Caradeux, a mid-slope, east-facing site that looks across at the hill of Corton. Expect ripe stone fruit carried on a firm, chalky line rather than richness for its own sake.

Aromatically the wine leads with white peach, lemon pith and a little crushed hazelnut, with something flinty underneath that lifts as the glass warms. The palate follows through with nectarine and green apple, a touch of ginger spice, and a saline edge that keeps the fruit honest.

Structure is the strength here. Acidity runs straight down the middle, the texture has a fine grip that firms up towards the back palate, and the finish is long, dry and a shade savoury. The 2022 growing season in the Côte de Beaune brought early ripening and generous fruit, and you can taste that in the wine's flesh, though the cool exposure of En Caradeux has kept the whole thing tight rather than broad.

Serve it with roast chicken and tarragon, seared scallops, a smoked trout salad, or a wedge of Comté. Just off fridge-cold suits it best — too cold and the aromatics shut down.

Drink from now through to around 2030, with the mid-point likely the sweet spot as the palate fills out.