The Paul Chavy Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 2023 is a broad, mid-weighted white Burgundy Chardonnay from the Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru vineyards on the Côte de Beaune. Morgeot gives it more breadth and flesh than a village Chassagne, with the citrus drive kept intact.

Aromatically it moves between white peach, lemon curd and a dusting of hazelnut, with a faint chalky, smoky lift behind the fruit. In the mouth there is nectarine and grapefruit pith, a little baked apple, and a savoury edge that builds with air rather than announcing itself early.

Paul Chavy works with very slow, gentle pressing and long ageing on fine lees, and that shows in the texture: creamy through the middle, but framed by firm acidity and a slightly saline, mineral close. Around 20% new oak sits underneath as spice and structure, not flavour. The finish is long and dry, with real grip for a wine of this generosity.

Serve it with roast chicken and bread sauce, scallops, blue-eye trevalla in butter, or a slab of Comté. It also handles richer Asian dishes — Cantonese poached chicken, or crab and ginger — better than most Premier Cru whites.

Drinking well from 2026, and the fruit weight and acid line should carry it comfortably through to 2032. Pull the cork about twenty minutes before pouring and serve it cool rather than cold.