The Paul Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Garenne 2023 is a taut, mineral-driven Chardonnay from the Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru vineyards of Burgundy, built on citrus and white orchard fruit rather than richness. La Garenne sits high on the slope, and the wine keeps that cool, chalky edge from first sniff to finish.

Aromatically it leads with lemon pith, white peach and green apple, backed by crushed oyster shell, almond skin and a faint waft of white flowers. Air brings out something drier and stonier underneath the fruit.

The palate is medium-bodied and finely drawn, with acidity running straight down the middle and a chalky, slightly saline grip along the edges. 2023 was a warm, generous season in the Côte de Beaune with a September heat spike that pushed ripeness along quickly, and you can taste that in the wine's flesh through the mid-palate, though the fruit stays firmly on the citrus side of ripe. The finish is long, savoury and gently bitter in the way good Puligny often is.

Serve it with roast chicken and lemon, scallops, a whole snapper off the barbecue, or a plate of freshly shucked oysters. It also handles gruyère and a young comté without any trouble.

Drink from now through to around 2032, with the middle years likely to show the most complexity. If you are opening a bottle this year, give it half an hour in the glass first.