The Portsea Estate Main Ridge Vineyard Block Reserve Chardonnay 2023 moves into reserve territory, sourced from a single block within the Main Ridge Vineyard on the Mornington Peninsula for greater concentration and length than the standard Main Ridge Vineyard bottling. It is the more serious, structured expression of this site, one step below the estate's top Stonecutters tier.

White peach, grapefruit and a struck-flint minerality lead the nose, with a subtle nuttiness building underneath as the wine opens and warms in the glass. The palate shows real depth and a fine, textural grip that marks it out clearly from the mid-tier wine — nothing here feels broad, simple or one-dimensional.

The finish is long, savoury and precise, with fine acidity carrying the fruit and texture together through to a lingering, mineral-edged close that holds its shape.

This is a Chardonnay for the table: try it with lobster, roast chicken with lemon and herbs, or a rich seafood risotto finished with a touch of cream.

It is drinking well now and will reward cellaring for a further three to five years.