The Hartford Court Sevens Bench Chardonnay 2018 is a single-vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay now carrying real bottle age, and it shows a more developed, savoury side than its younger stablemate from the same site in this range.

The nose has moved from pure citrus into baked apple, honey and toasted hazelnut, with a savoury, almost nutty complexity that only comes with time in bottle. The palate follows, richer and rounder than a young Chardonnay, orchard fruit softened and layered with that same developed character, showing real depth across the mid-palate.

Texture is broader and more textural than a youthful wine, acidity still present but folded into the whole rather than driving it, with a long, savoury, nutty finish that lingers pleasantly.

Its richness suits roast chicken, a creamy mushroom dish or a soft, washed-rind cheese served at room temperature. A simple tarte flambée with caramelised onion would also work nicely.

This is a wine at its peak, best enjoyed over the next two to three years rather than held further.