The Hartford Court Sevens Bench Chardonnay 2021 is the same single Russian River Valley vineyard as the 2018 in this range, but three vintages younger, and the wine is noticeably brighter and more primary as a result of that youth.

Lemon, green apple and white peach lead the nose, fresh and direct rather than developed. The palate mirrors that freshness, citrus and orchard fruit vivid and precise, without the honeyed, nutty complexity the older vintage has picked up with time in bottle.

Acidity is the driving force, crisp and linear, giving a taut, energetic mid-palate and a clean, long finish that stays fresh through to the end without any hint of fatigue. The overall effect is built for drinking rather than contemplation.

It matches well with grilled prawns, ceviche or a simple green salad with a citrus dressing. A plate of fresh oysters or a simple seafood linguine would suit it just as well.

It is youthful and precise now, with the potential to develop further complexity over the next three to four years.