The Hartford Court Seascape Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 is a single-vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay from another coastal-leaning site, but it drinks with more flesh and a more overt brininess than the racier Far Coast bottling alongside it in this range.

Ripe stone fruit and lemon curd sit on the nose alongside a distinct sea-spray, oyster-shell note. The palate is fuller and rounder than Far Coast's, with that same saline character showing through on a broader, softer frame, giving the wine real presence in the mouth.

Texture is where the two wines part ways most clearly: this is fuller and softer, acidity present but less taut, with a long, saline, faintly creamy finish that sets it apart.

It matches richer seafood: grilled scallops, lobster or a creamy chowder. A simple dish of pan-seared fish with a butter sauce would suit it just as well, and it holds up nicely against a creamy seafood pasta too.

It is generous and drinking well now, with enough balance to hold for another two to three years.