The Clos Naudin (Foreau) Vouvray Sec 2024 is a dry Chenin Blanc from Vouvray in the Loire Valley, built on tension rather than richness. It is taut, chalky and citrus-driven, with the kind of nervy acidity that marks the cooler, damper 2024 growing season in the region.

Quince, green apple skin and lemon pith lead the aromatics, with chamomile, beeswax and a faint smoky, wet-stone character sitting behind. The palate follows the same line: white peach and grapefruit, a little bruised apple sweetness on the mid-palate that stays firmly within a dry style, and a savoury edge closer to bread dough than fruit.

Structurally this is a lean, upright wine. Acidity does the work from front to back, the texture is fine and slightly waxy, and the finish is long, saline and dry, with the phenolic grip Chenin Blanc gives when it is picked with restraint. Alcohol sits lightly, which suits the vintage — 2024 in Vouvray demanded rigorous fruit selection, and the reward is clarity rather than weight.

Serve it with oysters, poached chicken, roast pork with apple, or a plate of goat's cheese and walnuts. It also handles ginger and lemongrass better than most dry whites, so a Vietnamese salad or steamed snapper works well.

Drink from now through to around 2038. Vouvray Sec of this cut is enjoyable young for its citrus and mineral snap, but a few years in the cellar will bring honey, dried pear and lanolin without softening the acid spine.