The Clos Naudin (Foreau) Vouvray Demi-Sec 2022 is a gently sweet Chenin Blanc from Vouvray in the Loire Valley, where the sugar sits inside a firm acid frame rather than on top of it. Ripe and generous by the standards of the house, it still finishes clean and dry-edged.

Quince, yellow apple and honeycomb lead the aromatics, with dried camomile, beeswax and a faint smoky note underneath. The palate carries poached pear and candied citrus peel, threaded with the lanolin and wet-stone character that Vouvray Chenin Blanc does better than anywhere.

Sweetness here is a texture as much as a flavour: broad and waxy through the middle, then pulled taut by chalky acidity that runs the length of the wine. Warm 2022 growing conditions across the Loire show as depth of fruit rather than heaviness, and the finish is long, saline and surprisingly brisk.

Pour it with roast pork and apple, seared scallops, a mild coconut curry, or a wedge of aged comté. It also handles pâté and terrines, where the residual sugar and the acid work on the richness from both sides.

Approachable now if decanted, though the 2022 will be more interesting from around 2028, and well-cellared bottles of Foreau demi-sec have a habit of running two decades or more.