The Clos Thierrière Sang de Roche Vouvray 2023 is a dry, mineral-driven Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley, grown on flinty clay in the commune of Vernou-sur-Brenne. Made by twin brothers Guillaume and Baptiste Frey from a single 1.5-hectare parcel of thirty-year-old vines, it is a wine of clarity and tension rather than richness.

Quince, green apple skin and a squeeze of lime lead the aromatics, with lime blossom and a faint smoky, struck-flint character behind them. Hand-harvested fruit, direct pressing and eight months in tank have kept everything transparent, so the fruit reads fresh and unadorned rather than worked.

Sang de Roche is lean in the best sense, with a firm acid spine running the length of the palate and a chalky, slightly saline grip through the middle. There is enough texture from native yeast fermentation to stop it feeling austere, and the finish is long, dry and gently peppery.

Pair it with oysters, whole roasted flounder, goat's cheese or a chicken and leek pie. It also handles pork belly and apple, and stands up to a bit of chilli in Thai-style seafood.

Drinking well now with an hour in the decanter, and this Vouvray Chenin Blanc has the acidity and structure to reward cellaring through to around 2033.