Clos Thierrière Les Murs 2021 is a dry, tautly built Chenin Blanc from Vouvray in the Loire Valley, drawn from a parcel of centenarian vines of less than a hectare on thin soil over tuffeau limestone. Quince and chalk lead rather than tropical fruit, and the wine carries a serious, savoury cast for a white at this weight.

The nose opens on ripe pear, lemon curd and bruised apple, with beeswax and dried camomile underneath and a wisp of woodsmoke that grows with air. On the palate there is a lick of honey over green apple and grapefruit pith, more textural than overtly fruity, and the twelve-month élevage in neutral barrique shows as breadth rather than flavour.

Acidity runs straight down the middle and holds the wine tight, while the palate itself is broad and faintly waxy. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal sulphur, the 2021 Les Murs finishes long, dry and stony, with a bitter almond edge that keeps pulling you back.

Pour it with roast chicken and tarragon, pork belly with apple, a soft washed-rind cheese, or Sydney rock oysters if you want the mineral side to sing. It also handles smoked fish and mild curry spice better than most dry whites.

Drinking well now with a decant, though this Vouvray has the acid structure and concentration to reward cellaring through to 2033 and likely beyond, gaining lanolin and toasted nut character as it goes.