Château de Coulaine Clos de la Cure 2022 is a dry, textural Chinon Blanc from the Loire Valley, made entirely from organically grown Chenin Blanc. Fermented and aged in a single sandstone jar rather than oak, it leads with savoury herbs and firm orchard fruit instead of gloss.

Quince, ripe pear and a squeeze of lemon come first, with aniseed and a persistent thread of tarragon running underneath. Air brings out chamomile and beeswax, so it pays to decant this one and avoid serving it straight from the fridge.

The palate is broad and gently waxy, the small touch of micro-oxygenation in the jar softening the edges while Chenin's acidity keeps everything upright. There's a chalky, faintly saline grip through the middle, and the finish is long and dry, closing on bitter citrus pith and dried herbs.

Pour it with roast chicken and tarragon, grilled whiting, pork belly with fennel, or a leek and gruyère tart. Aged goat's cheese and richer Asian dishes built on ginger and coriander also work well.

Drink Château de Coulaine Clos de la Cure 2022 now through to about 2030. It is generous enough to enjoy this year, though the acid line and phenolic grip suggest the wine will pick up honeyed, nutty complexity with another few years in the cellar.