Domaine Arnaud Lambert Coulée de St Cyr 2020 is a dry, taut Chenin Blanc from Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg in Saumur, Loire Valley, built on citrus and chalk rather than richness. It is a serious white with real presence, drawn from vines planted in the 1960s on clay over limestone and farmed organically.

The aromatics lean towards lemon pith, quince and just-ripe pear, with a waxy, beeswax edge and a smoky, struck-flint note that lifts as the wine sits in the glass. Camomile and a touch of orchard blossom sit behind the fruit.

Twenty months of ageing in barrel and concrete tank has given the 2020 a broad, gently textural middle, but the shape is all line and length. Acidity is firm and chalky, the fruit stays dry and slightly salty through the back palate, and the finish is long, stony and clean, with a faint bitterness that keeps it appetising.

Pour it with roast chicken and tarragon, grilled snapper, scallops with brown butter, or a plate of triple-cream cheese and firm goat's curd. Pork belly and apple works nicely too, as does anything with a mustard or cider sauce.

Drinking well from now through to around 2032, with the concentration and acid to keep developing honeyed, nutty complexity across that time. Serve it at cellar temperature rather than fridge-cold, and decant if you're opening a bottle young.