Domaine Arnaud Lambert Saumur Brézé Midi 2024 is a taut, dry Chenin Blanc from the tuffeau limestone hill of Brézé in Saumur, Loire Valley. Steel-fermented and unshowy, it leads with citrus and chalk rather than weight or sweetness.

Aromas run to lemon peel, green apple and quince, with a little dried chamomile and beeswax sitting behind the fruit. The palate stays lean and clear, the fruit more crunchy pear and grapefruit than anything tropical, with a faint smoky, stony note that the Brézé sites tend to give.

Acidity is the frame here, bright and unbuffered, drawing a narrow line of flavour right through the middle of the wine. Texture comes from the fine, slightly saline grip on the back palate rather than from any sense of richness, and the finish is long, dry and mineral, closing on lemon pith and salt.

Serve it with oysters, grilled whiting or scallops, roast chicken with lemon and thyme, or a fresh goat's cheese. It also handles pork with apple and lightly spiced Asian dishes better than most whites of this weight.

Drinking well from now with a decant or an hour in the glass, and the Midi's acidity and depth of fruit suggest it will reward cellaring through to about 2032, taking on honey and toasted nut as it goes.