The Domaine Arnaud Lambert Saumur Brézé La Rue 2020 is a dry, powerful Chenin Blanc from the hill of Brézé in the Loire Valley, built on ripe orchard fruit and a firm chalky spine. Grown organically on sand and clay over tuffeau limestone in the warmest of the domaine's Brézé parcels, it carries real weight without losing its line.

Quince, ripe pear and yellow apple lead, with beeswax, dried camomile and a twist of lemon peel behind them. There is a gentle smoky, struck-stone character that becomes more obvious as the wine warms in the glass.

La Rue is broad across the middle palate, with a waxy, almost oily texture pulled tight by bright acidity and a saline, mineral grip. Older vines and the warmth of the site give it flesh, but the finish is dry, long and stony rather than rich, closing on citrus pith and toasted nuts.

Serve it with roast chicken and buttery leeks, scallops, pork belly, or a wedge of aged comté. It also handles richer fish dishes — turbot, or ocean trout with a cream sauce — better than most whites at this weight.

Drinking well now if given an hour in a decanter, and it should hold and build for a decade or more from vintage. Chenin Blanc of this class from Brézé rewards patience, so cellar a bottle or two if you can.