Fabien Duveau's Saumur blanc Bois du Chêne 2023, bottled in magnum, comes from the Brézé site - a limestone outcrop increasingly recognised as one of the finest Chenin Blanc terroirs in the Loire.

The nose is taut and mineral, with citrus and quince sitting over a pronounced chalky, almost saline character typical of Brézé's shallow limestone soils. On the palate it's dry and precise, with real tension between the fruit and the site's driving minerality, finishing long and stony. Brézé's reputation has grown fast in recent years, and bottlings like this from old, low-yielding vines show exactly why - real cut and length without any need for weight.

Pour it with oysters, grilled fish, or a simple goat's cheese salad. It also suits sushi and other raw-fish preparations. Drinking well now and with the acid structure to hold comfortably through to around 2030.