The Dr Bürklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Bohlig Riesling P.C. 2020 is a dry Riesling from Wachenheim in the Pfalz, tightly wound and driven more by citrus and stony grip than by ripe fruit. Bohlig carries more active limestone than the estate's other sites, and that shows in a wine with real tension through the middle.

Lemon peel, white peach and green apple lead, with a smoky, struck-match edge and a faint whiff of ginger and dried herb behind the fruit. Air brings a leesy, bread-dough depth that sits under the citrus rather than covering it.

Medium-bodied and firmly dry, the 2020 Bohlig has a taut acid line that runs from front to back without sharpness, and a chalky, almost salty texture across the tongue. The finish is long and savoury, closing on grapefruit pith and wet stone. Fruit here is grown biodynamically, and the wine has a clarity and drive that reward a decent glass and a little time in the air.

Serve it with grilled snapper, pork belly with apple, prawn dumplings, or a smoked trout salad with fennel and dill. It also handles Thai and Vietnamese food with chilli better than most whites, and it is very good with a plate of oysters.

Drinking well now with an hour's air, and this Wachenheim Riesling should hold and build complexity through to around 2032.