The Dr Bürklin-Wolf Ruppertsberger Hoheburg Riesling P.C. 2022 is a dry Pfalz Riesling with real presence, built on citrus and stone fruit rather than sweetness. Grown on the red and white sandstone soils around Ruppertsberg, this Premier Cru Riesling carries its ripeness on a firm, mineral frame.

Grapefruit and lemon pith lead, with yellow peach, mirabelle and a chalky, flint-struck edge behind them. Air brings out dried herbs and a faint waxy note that gives the aromatics some weight.

Spontaneous fermentation and ten months in large old casks show in the texture rather than in any oak flavour — the palate is broad through the middle, with a fine phenolic grip along the edges and acidity that runs straight and clean to a long, saline finish. The 2022 has generous fruit but the sandstone site keeps it taut rather than plump.

Serve it with roast pork belly and apple, seared scallops, schnitzel with lemon, or a plate of raw kingfish. It also handles smoked fish and mild spice better than most dry whites, and works well with soft washed-rind cheeses.

Drinking well from now, with the acid and phenolic structure to reward another six to eight years in a cool cellar. Decant or give it half an hour in the glass if you are opening a bottle young.