The Dr Bürklin-Wolf Reiterpfad Riesling G.C. 2021 is a dry, tightly wound Riesling from Deidesheim in Germany's Pfalz, built on citrus, wet stone and a long line of acidity rather than richness. It is a serious bottle in a cool, classically proportioned style, and it rewards patience.

Lemon and green apple lead the aromatics, with white peach, grapefruit pith and a flinty, almost gravelly edge sitting underneath. Air brings out something floral and a faint herbal lift, though the fruit stays restrained rather than showy.

The palate is taut and linear, carried by bright acidity and a chalky, faintly phenolic grip that gives the wine grain and length. The 2021 season across the Pfalz was cool and late, and that shows here in the modest weight, the sharply drawn fruit and the dry, saline finish that keeps going well after the glass is down. Bürklin-Wolf farm biodynamically, and this Grand Cru bottling has the clarity you'd hope for from that.

Pour it with grilled snapper, sashimi or scallops, or with roast pork and apple. It also handles smoked trout, prawn dumplings and mild Thai and Vietnamese dishes without losing its shape.

Drinking well from now with an hour's air or a decant, and it should hold and build complexity through to around 2033.