Domaine La Suffrène Bandol Rosé 2024 is a dry, pale-copper rosé from Bandol in Provence, built on Mourvèdre and made with more substance than the average Provençal pink. It has the savoury edge and mid-palate weight that mark Bandol out from its neighbours, without losing the freshness you want from a young rosé.

The aromas lead with wild strawberry and white peach, then turn drier and more herbal — crushed thyme, a little pink grapefruit pith, a chalky mineral note underneath. On the palate the fruit is generous rather than sweet, with redcurrant and nectarine flavours carried on a fine, saline line that keeps everything tight.

Texture is where this Bandol rosé earns its keep. There is real breadth across the middle, a gentle grip from the Mourvèdre that gives the wine shape against food, and acidity that stays firm through a long, slightly bitter finish of citrus rind and dried herbs. Dry, focused and considerably more serious than its colour suggests.

Serve it around 8 to 10°C, and give it a large glass rather than a flute — it opens up with a bit of air. Very good with grilled prawns, bouillabaisse, roast chicken with lemon, salt-baked snapper, or a plate of jamón and green olives. Drink from now through to 2027, though the 2024 will still be showing well a year beyond that.