An unusual choice for pink wine, nebbiolo is the base of 'Peony', Fetherston's 2023 rosé that trades the variety's famous tannin for savoury structure rather than sweetness.

Red cherry and dried rose petal lead, with a bitter orange-peel note that's distinctly nebbiolo rather than generic pink-wine fruit, and a faint dried herb quality sitting in the background. The palate is genuinely dry and more textural than most rosé, carrying real structure rather than simple fruit sweetness.

There's a light grip from brief skin contact, and the finish stays savoury and dry rather than fading into fruit. That grip is the clue to the grape underneath; few rosés built purely for fruit sweetness would carry this much texture, and it's a style better suited to the table than the pool deck.

It suits charcuterie, roast chicken with herbs, or a tomato-based dish that can meet its structure and acidity rather than being overwhelmed by a sweeter style.

Drink it over the next year or two, while its savoury character is still fresh rather than fading.