'Lily' is a 2021 sparkling wine made entirely from sauvignon blanc, an unusual base for bubbles that keeps all of the variety's aromatic lift rather than trading it for something more neutral.

Passionfruit, gooseberry and lime dominate the nose, translating straight from the still version of the grape rather than being muted by the sparkling process, with a faint grassy note adding a little extra edge. The palate is zesty and frothy, with that same tropical-and-citrus character carrying through.

Acidity is bright, the body stays light, and the finish is crisp and refreshing, a genuinely different style of sparkling wine rather than a chardonnay-pinot base with sauvignon novelty added on. The bubbles read as an extension of the fruit rather than a separate layer sitting on top of it.

It suits goat's cheese, fresh seafood, or a citrus-dressed salad, food that won't fight the wine's own aromatics.

With a few years of bottle age behind it now, 'Lily' is drinking well and ready to open; there's no reason to hold it further.